Tag Archives: san juan islands

Orcas Island, Washington 2015

Our quick weekend getaway to Orcas Island, WA: Rosario Resort and the Moran Mansion, farmers market, great food, and beautiful island scenery.

 

Paddy and I are originally from San Juan Island, a neighboring island to Orcas Island in the San Juan archipelago. Even though we grew up close by, we have really only been to Orcas Island a handful of times in our lives.

While most tourists bypass the other islands and head straight to Friday Harbor and San Juan Island, Orcas Island is not to be overlooked. It is geographically the largest of the four main San Juan Islands, and has some of the most stunning scenery combined with small town laid-back island life.

Day 1:

We made our ferry reservations in advance, and caught the 6:30 PM sailing on Friday from Anacortes. We left Seattle at 3:30 and traffic wasn’t too bad. We arrived the Anacortes ferry terminal within about two hours. We grabbed a snack at the little Cheesecake Cafe ferry terminal kiosk and soon were loaded onto the boat heading to Orcas Island.

*Note: Ferry reservations strongly recommended for Friday evening sailings, and are an absolute must in the summertime.

There was a spectacular fall sunset on the way, and the weather was weirdly warm despite the strong October breeze.

sunset from ferry to orcas Island
Sunset seen from the ferry to Orcas Island

sunset from ferry to orcas Island

We arrived Orcas Island starving, and followed the train of cars through the dark about 15 minutes into the main town of Eastsound in the middle of the island. After a quick stop at the Island Market for beer, wine, and some light breakfast items for the morning, we walked next door to the Lower Tavern for dinner.

*Note: The grocery stores close around 8:00 to 9:00 PM, so be sure to get your snacks and beverages early.

The Lower Tavern is your basic local bar with a variety of burgers and pub grub. There is a pool table, neon beer signs, good beer selection, and locals a plenty. Service was good, and the food was your average pub fare. This is one of the less-expensive places to eat on Orcas Island if you are looking for somewhere casual.

lower tavern eastsound orcas island
Crispy chicken burger and fries at the Lower Tavern in Eastsound
lower tavern eastsound orcas island
Lower Tavern, Eastsound

After dinner, we drove another 15 minutes east and then south to Rosario Resort, one of the oldest hotels on Orcas Island. Rosario is the 40 acre former estate of Seattle shipbuilder and mayor Robert Moran, who built his mansion here over 100 years ago. The mansion is now the main building at Rosario, hosting a spa, bar and restaurant, and a museum of the upper floors of the Moran mansion.

Surprisingly, Rosario had the best priced room I could find on Orcas Island. We had reserved the least expensive room, a hillside king at $120/night.  It was a bit far from the main mansion, down the road and up a steep hill. The room was nice, and included cable TV, a fridge, microwave, coffee maker, and a nice balcony overlooking the bay. We were visiting in October, and the price of the room drops further in the winter season to $99/night (when I last checked, anyway). The only complaint we had is that the water pressure in the shower was pretty low. Other than that it was a very nice room.

Rosario hillside king room Orcas Island
Rosario hillside king room
Rosario hillside king room Orcas Island
Rosario hillside king room

Rosario hillside king room Orcas Island

 

Day 2:

We slept in the next morning, enjoying the view from our room and the sound of the waves on the shore below. We had coffee and snacks we had bought the night before in our room for a light breakfast, and then headed down to the Mansion to check out the museum.

Rosario Moran Mansion Orcas Island

The upstairs floors of the Moran Mansion are preserved as a historical museum of the Moran family. There is the main music room in the middle, with a two story pipe organ. I read that every Saturday you can come hear an organist play the organ and then have access to the library rooms on the third floor mezzanine, which are otherwise closed to the public.

The museum has a lot of the original furniture from the Moran family, as well as photos of the Moran family, models of Robert Moran’s ships that he built, and other early turn of the century artifacts.

Rosario Moran Mansion Orcas Island
Front of the Moran Mansion

Rosario Resort also has two outdoor pools for the summer season, including one for adults at the main mansion and a larger one for families down by the harbor.

Rosario Resort adult pool Orcas Island
Adult pool at the Moran Mansion
Rosario Resort Orcas Island
The hotel rooms from across the bay as viewed from the mansion

After touring the museum, we headed back to the town of Eastsound for the Orcas Island farmer’s market. In the fall it is located indoors at the Oddfellows Hall on Saturdays from 11:00 to 2:00.

The farmers market had lots of locally farmed fruits and vegetables, hand crafted jewelry, felted hats, and other gifts. Island made foods such as sausages, chocolates, baked goods, pasta, coffee, and jams were also available for sale. I scraped together some cash to purchase some huge and amazing-looking gloves of garlic from the farmer with the sausage (his credit card square wasn’t working on his phone). Bringing cash is recommended.

Paddy tasted a bunch of jams from Girl Meets Dirt at the table next door and said they were all delicious. He bought her peach chamomile preserves and miraculously got his card to swipe on her phone square. With flavors like rhubarb lavender, pear balsamic, and fig basil it was difficult to choose.

I also recommend Island Thyme bath and cosmetic products–especially the lip balms and the bar soaps. My Mom on San Juan Island often puts them in my Christmas stocking. I’m a lip balm and lip gloss junkie, and theirs is one of my favorites.

Girl Meets Dirt peach chamomile preserves from the farmer's market orcas island
Girl Meets Dirt peach chamomile preserves from the farmer’s market

If you can’t make it to the farmers market and still want some preserves or other locally made products, you can visit the Orcas Island Food Co-Op which is open daily in East Sound.

Eastsound Orcas Island
Eastsound, Orcas Island–view from Oddfellows Hall farmers market

After the farmers market we were hungry, so we decided to have lunch at Rose’s Bakery & Cafe in Eastsound. It was a nice little spot and the food was good, although a bit overpriced for what you got. Our sandwiches were $16.00 each, Paddy’s mole chicken sandwich came with about two tablespoons of coleslaw and my fried green tomato BLT came with about two tablespoons of potato salad. I know that things are more expensive in the islands, but cabbage and potatoes aren’t high-end ingredients. It seems that the side could have been at least a half cup’s worth. When we left Paddy was still hungry. Not exactly what you want to feel like after spending $16.00 on a sandwich. Good quality, but not sure if we’ll be back based on the prices.

Fried green tomato BLT at Rose's Bakery Cafe Orcas Island
Fried green tomato BLT at Rose’s Bakery Cafe
Mole chicken sandwich at Rose's Bakery Cafe
Mole chicken sandwich at Rose’s Bakery Cafe

After lunch we headed east towards Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park.  Moran State Park is host to several hiking trails, a campground, and two large lakes–one with a nice swim beach in the summertime. The last time we were on Orcas Island was about 12 years ago in October, and we tried to go up to the top of Mt Constitution to see the view from the tower but about three quarters of the way up the mountain we found ourselves in a dense fog prohibiting any kind of view whatsoever.

Moran State Park Orcas Island
Moran State Park entrance

Unfortunately, we found ourselves in the same situation again as we ascended the mountain. We did enjoy the spooky mist and forest views, however.

Foggy road to Mt Constitution
Foggy road to Mt Constitution

When we neared the top, instead of this:

Mt Constitution Moran State Park
View from Mt Constitution on a clear day. Image from http://moranstatepark.com/mount-constitution/

We got this:

Orcas-Island 236

*Note: Go to Mt. Constitution on sunny days only if you want to see the view. Also, be sure to have your Discover Pass with you for parking.

The rain was getting heavier, and we kind of felt like hibernating. We made a quick stop in Eastsound for an afternoon snack at Brown Bear Baking. After surveying several delectable items including chocolate croissants as big as my face, I selected a chocolate muffin for Paddy and I to share. It was delicious–very chocolatey with a nice crunchy top. We headed back to the room for some R&R.

Brown Bear Baking in Eastsound
Brown Bear Baking in Eastsound
chocolate muffins at Brown Bear Baking in Eastsound
Chocolate muffins at Brown Bear Baking in Eastsound

The sun broke through the clouds around 4:30 as we were watching the tail end of Footloose on TV. (Side note curiosity–how long did it take for Kevin Bacon to stop finding  glitter everywhere after filming the end dance scene?)

We were getting hungry and were trying to decide where to go for dinner. We decided on the Inn at Ship Bay just east of Eastsound. We called to find out if we needed reservations and were informed that they were completely booked for the evening but there were some spots at the bar open at the moment. We jumped in the car and snagged a couple of the last spots at the cozy little bar with a view of the sound.

Dinner was outstanding. It was a splurge, but well worth it. I ordered the Apple Pye cocktail, with apple liquer, bay leaf, vodka, and ginger beer. It was fall in a glass, and very strong.

inn at ship bay apple pye cocktail orcas island
Apple Pye cocktail

For dinner, we started with the Mangalitsa pork belly appetizer and the tomato goat cheese tart. Both were fabulous. The pork belly was nice and crispy on the outside and the quince and apple puree complimented it nicely.

For entrees I had the weathervane scallops with the sprouted lentil salad, and Paddy had the sirloin steak. We also couldn’t pass up on dessert–the goat cheese bourbon cheesecake with apples. It was a perfect fall meal, and we would recommend Inn at Ship Bay highly for dinner.

Mangalitsa pork belly with quince and apple puree
Mangalitsa pork belly with quince and apple puree
Goat cheese and tomato tart with arugula salad
Goat cheese and tomato tart with arugula salad
Sirloin steak Inn at Ship Bay Orcas island
Sirloin steak
Weathervane scallops with citrus risotto, sprouted lentil salad, and lemon aoli
Weathervane scallops with citrus risotto, sprouted lentil salad, and lemon aoli
Goat cheese apple bourbon cheesecake
Goat cheese apple bourbon cheesecake

After dinner, we headed back to Rosario. Paddy wanted to have a drink at the Mansion bar, and I wanted to go soak in the hot tub in the basement spa.

I had stayed here at Rosario once when I was a kid with my parents in the 1980’s. The indoor pool back then was a big, white, milky, creepy experience with pipes going across the room over the pool. It kind of felt like being in the belly of a flooded ship.

I was pleased to see that they had re-done the entire pool and that it was much nicer looking. There was also a sauna.

Rosario Resort indoor pool at the spa
Rosario Resort indoor pool at the spa

I got a locker padlock and a towel from the front desk lady in the gift shop area at the spa entrance, and made my way back to the little changing rooms and lockers. The changing rooms are all individual and unisex and just outside the main pool area. One thing that I’m pretty sure hadn’t changed since the 1980’s was the dingy green carpet in the changing room area and hallway that smelled like about 30 years worth of chlorine that had dripped off of hundreds of wet bathers festering away in it’s fibers. I have no idea why this area is carpeted, and is something that they should probably address.

Around the corner from the small wall of lockers is the hall leading to the outdoor adult pool and a very creepy exercise room. If there is one area that is haunted in this 100+ year old mansion, it is the exercise room. I am sure of it.

I found the womens showers and rinsed off, then climbed into the jacuzzi tub. The tub was huge and no one was in it, which was very nice. It was heavily chorinated, however. I smelled like chlorine the rest of the night, despite rinsing off afterward. If you have sensitive skin, you might want to evaluate the chlorine levels before getting in.

Rosario Resort hot tub in the spa
Rosario Resort hot tub in the spa

After I changed I found Paddy at the Mansion bar, which was hoppin’ busy. There was live music and a roaring fire in the fireplace. We headed back to the room to relax and watch a movie.

Rosario Resort mansion at night
Rosario Resort mansion at night

 

Day 3:

Sunday morning brought beautiful rays of sunshine. It was a shame we didn’t have time to go up to Mt. Constitution to take in the view before catching the ferry, but we had reservations for the 8:45 sailing back to Anacortes.

We got in line for the ferry about half an hour before boarding, and walked down the hill to the little Orcas Village Store in search of coffee and sustenance.

Orcas Village Store at the ferry landing orcas island
Orcas Village Store at the ferry landing

We ordered some espresso at their coffee/deli counter and some surprisingly delicious chipotle bacon breakfast burritos sitting pre-made in their warm food cabinet near the counter. There were also pastries, bagels with salmon cream cheese and other deli items for purchase. The breakfast burritos were really good.

Soon enough the ferry rounded the corner and we were loaded onto the boat, which made stops at Shaw and Lopez Islands as well.

Orcas Island ferry
Ferry coming into dock
Orcas Island village from ferry
View of Orcas Village landing from the ferry
Cars loading onto the ferry on Orcas Island
Cars loading onto the ferry on Orcas Island

It was a nice little weekend getaway. When we come back to visit Orcas Island again, we’d like to see a bit more of the island itself–hiking in Moran State Park, Cascade Falls, Deer Harbor, and Doe Bay. We’ll be back.

 

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San Juan Island, Washington in the Summer

San Juan Island, Washington in the summer: American Camp, English Camp, hiking, restaurants, and the best places to catch the sunset (and maybe even whales)

 

The best way to have a great getaway to San Juan Island, WA in the summer is to plan way in advance. I know that’s hard for some people to do, but the further ahead you book your hotel and ferry reservation, the easier your trip will be. If you plan on camping at San Juan County Park, try to get your reservation as soon as it becomes available 90 days in advance. I would also recommend dinner reservations at any nicer restaurants a few days to a week in advance if possible. The major holiday weekends (Memorial Day, Fourth of July, and Labor Day) are all going to be especially busy.

https://secureapps.wsdot.wa.gov/Ferries/Reservations/Vehicle/default.aspx
https://secureapps.wsdot.wa.gov/Ferries/Reservations/Vehicle/default.aspx

Friday Harbor/San Juan Island is the busiest of the San Juan Islands, and has the largest town. If you want to go when the weather is still nice but less crowded (no guarantee for nice weather in the Pacific Northwest, however), try going in May before Memorial Day weekend or in September after Labor Day Weekend. This is the shoulder season and while it is still popular with travelers, most of the families have kids in school then and take their vacations in July and August.

Friday Harbor ferry
Friday Harbor ferry
Friday Harbor, San Juan Island
Friday Harbor, San Juan Island

The best way to enjoy San Juan Island in the summer is to get out of town (don’t spend all your time in Friday Harbor). I strongly recommend bringing a car or a bicycle to see the island, as public transportation is limited to the tourist shuttle and doesn’t give you much freedom to get around the whole island. Mopeds and buggies can also be rented, just try to stay in the bike lanes as much as possible when you rent these, and be prepared for glares from locals if you rent the buggies. If cost is a factor, it will be less expensive to bring your car on the ferry than it will be to pay for parking on the other side and rent a moped. Bicycles can be rented at Island Bicycles if you want to bike the island and don’t have your own.

I won’t cover everything there is to do and see on San Juan Island, but I’ll give you my favorite summer adventures. Grab a picnic lunch at King’s Market in Friday Harbor or from the Market Chef Deli and head out for the day.

 

American Camp and the South End

There was once American and British occupancy on San Juan Island in the Civil War era, and someone shooting a pig on the island almost started a war between the US and Great Britain in 1859. There is a visitor’s center, and lots of details about early settlement of the island on plaques throughout the park.

The history and old military buildings are interesting, but the main reason to come to American Camp is the natural beauty. Miles of unspoiled beaches and golden grassy hills with ample amounts of primitive walking trails comprise the park. This is raw island beauty at its finest, and I used to spend hours walking the trails and coastline here as a kid.

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Griffin Bay, San Juan Island
cattle-point-lighthouse-american-camp-san-juan-island
American Camp, San Juan Island
American Camp beach San Juan Island
American Camp beach

American Camp San Juan Island

American Camp San Juan Island

American-Camp-San-Juan-Island

American-Camp-San-Juan-Island

Keep your eyes peeled for a glimpse of some of the local island foxes

San Juan Island fox
Island fox

The best beaches on San Juan Island are on the south end, most of them are in American Camp. South Beach is the largest, with ample parking and pit toilets. When heading through American Camp on Cattle Point Road, the South Beach road will be on the right and is well marked.

South Beach from Mt Finlayson
South Beach viewed  from Cattle Point Rd

Eagle Cove Beach is outside of American Camp park, and is the number one local favorite on San Juan Island. It is one of the only beaches on the island that is sandy, and the tide often goes out pretty far in the summertime. It does get extremely busy in the summer, I would recommend going earlier in the morning to get a good parking space and catch the lowest tides. You can find a tide schedule here. To get to Eagle Cove, take a right off of Cattle Point Road onto Eagle Cove Drive just before the American Camp sign. Follow the residential road and the small grassy parking lot will be on your left.

Eagle Cove Beach in the summer
Eagle Cove Beach at medium tide in the summer

If you want a sandy beach but want to avoid the crowds, Granny’s Cove in American Camp is another option. Park your car at the American Camp Visitor’s Center (take a right off of Cattle Point Road just after the American Camp sign) and follow the grass trail opposite the Officer’s Quarters down towards the coast. Veer to the right when you reach the coastal cliffs and the beach will be at the bottom of a short but steep trail down the cliff.

Granny's Cove San Juan Island
Granny’s Cove at high tide

The Cattle Point Lighthouse is another one of my favorite sights on the south end. The parking lot is managed by the state, so note that a discover pass is required to park there. The trail is short and easy, and the views are stunning. There is another little rocky beach near the parking lot as well.

Cattle Point Light House
Cattle Point Light House

Cattle Point Light House San Juan Island

cattle point lighthouse san juan island

Cattle Point Light House San Juan Island
Cattle Point Light House San Juan Island
Cattle Point Beach San Juan Island
Cattle Point Beach

 

 English Camp

On the north part of the island, you’ll find the historical remains of the British occupation of the island in the 1800’s. English Camp is very geographically different than American Camp. Instead of sweeping, wild coastal plains, you’ll find grassy fields and orchards, an English rose garden, a rocky beach home to many shellfish, and several woodsy hiking trails.

English-Camp-San-Juan-Island-summer (2)
English Camp, San Juan Island
English-Camp-San-Juan-Island-summer (6)
English Camp, San Juan Island
English-Camp-San-Juan-Island-summer (3)
English Camp, San Juan Island
English-Camp-San-Juan-Island-summer (7)
English Camp, San Juan Island
English-Camp-San-Juan-Island-summer (5)
English Camp, San Juan Island

There is a visitor’s center with historical information and videos, a decent sized parking lot, and pit toilets.

One of the best view hiking trails on San Juan Island is the Young Hill trail, departing from the English Camp parking lot. The hike is about a mile long uphill, gaining 600 ft of elevation to gorgeous views at the top. Locals call it Mt Young, but it really isn’t much of a mountain.

Young Hill San Juan Island
Young Hill view, image from http://blog.kenmoreair.com/index.php/2-san-juan-island-hikes/

 

Roche Harbor and the Mausoleum

Roche Harbor is the only other part of the island where you will find some sort of civilization outside of Friday Harbor (i.e. cell reception). There isn’t a lot there, but you’ll find a harbor, a cafe, grocery store, gift shop, old historic Hotel De Haro, and remains of John McMillan’s lime quarry. McMillan’s Restaurant in the Hotel De Haro is pricey but very good. The restaurant and hotel are rumored to be haunted. Paddy worked with a guy who used to work there and he has stories of lights and radios coming on by themselves when he was alone at night closing the kitchen in the winter. In the summer you’ll find Roche Harbor bustling with wealthy tourists, the harbor full of expensive yachts. It is pretty though, and worth checking out.

Roche-Harbor-San-Juan-Island-Summer (4)
Historic Hotel De Haro at Roche Harbor, San Juan Island
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Roche Harbor chapel, San Juan Island
Roche-Harbor-San-Juan-Island-Summer (2)
Roche Harbor, San Juan Island
Roche-Harbor-San-Juan-Island-Summer (5)
Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

 

If you peer over the edge of the docks you can often see the white sea anemones metridium senile growing on the docks.

metridium senile anemones
metridium senile anemones
metridium senile anemones
metridium senile anemones

 

Near the entrance to Roche Harbor next to the airfield is one of my all time favorite places to see on San Juan Island, The Mausoleum.

The Mausoleum was built by Roche Harbor founder John McMillan as a final resting place for his family.

Parking is in a gravel lot facing the private airfield, and the trail is just up the road a few feet. An easy half mile hike through the woods takes you past several old tombstones that are gated by wire and picket fences.

The Mausoleum Roche Harbor
The Mausoleum

A windy little path through the woods meets up with a wide path that leads to the Mausoleum, “Afterglow Vista.”

It is beautiful and eery at the same time. The structure contains symbolism of the Masonic order. Grecian style columns surround a marble and stone table on a stone platform with six chairs surrounding it. Each chair contains the ashes of a family member, as well as his secretary. One of the columns was built purposefully broken.

 

 The West Side

The West side of San Juan Island is the favorite place of many of my fellow island friends. It is most popular for watching the sunset from the rocky cliffs just off of West Side Road. There is parking at Lime Kiln State Park (Discover Pass required) and there are also a few pull off parking spots along West Side Road. There is a light house and the remains of old lime kilns from the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. When I was growing up we always called it “Whale Watch Park” because the West Side is the best place to try and catch a glimpse of whales from the shore.  At dusk and dark you can see the flickering lights of Victoria, BC across the sound.

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Watching the sunset on the West Side
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Watching the sunset on the West Side
Sunset-westside-san-juan-island-summer
Watching the sunset on the West Side

 

Also on the West Side is Pelindaba Lavender Farm. If you like lavender and lavender products, this place is also worth a stop, if only to get a nice photo in front of the lavender fields. They also have a shop in town.

Pelindaba Lavender Farm
Pelindaba Lavender Farm

 

 

Go on a Whale Watch  Tour

If you can swing a reservation (book far in advance for summer), a small boat whale and wildlife tour with Maya’s Legacy Charters is well worth it. Maya’s Legacy has small boats only, so you aren’t on a crowded boat straining to see around all the other tourists. They  depart from the West Side at Snug Harbor. Leaving from the West Side where the whales are means you get more time with the whales and more out of your tour. They also have a naturalist on most of their tours to explain more about the wildlife. You can read about my recent tour with Maya’s Legacy Charters here.

Kayak tours are also a great way to get out on the water and see some marine life. You can book a tour at www.Sea-Quest-Kayak.com or www.CrystalSeas.com.

Photo from www.legacycharters.org
Orca whale breaching Photo from http://sanjuanislandwhalewatch.com/
whale-watching-in-the-san-juan-islands 136
Sea Lions
whale-watching-in-the-san-juan-islands 130
Sea Lions
whale-watching-in-the-san-juan-islands 092
Humpback whale
whale-watching-in-the-san-juan-islands 076
Humpback whale

 

Where to Eat

My two favorite places for a nice dinner on San Juan Island are the Duck Soup Inn (about 4 miles north of Friday Harbor off of Roche Harbor Road) and the Backdoor Kitchen in Friday Harbor. Both close down for all or part of the winter season, so if I’m on the island in the summer I usually try to make a point to go to one of them.

The Duck Soup Inn is an old island establishment and recently changed ownership. I haven’t been there since the new owners took over, but hopefully it is still as amazing as it was last time I went. Entree prices are around $28-$37 a plate, but include both a cup of soup and a small starter salad, as well as their delicious signature anchovy spread and fresh bread. For fine dining, it’s a pretty decent deal for the price.

Duck Soup Inn
Duck Soup Inn
Duck Soup Inn
Duck Soup Inn

The Backdoor Kitchen is a little hard to find (I think the owners kind of like to keep it that way). One of the owners also runs a landscaping business on the island and the outdoor patio seating is amazing on a nice summer evening. It is a little pricey, but the food is organic and high quality. Cocktails are inventive and the menu has an international flair. Service is always fantastic.

Backdoor-Kitchen-Friday-Harbor-summer
Entrance to the Backdoor Kitchen
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My parents waiving to us on the Backdoor Kitchen patio
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Romantic little table in the outdoor patio at Backdoor Kitchen
Backdoor-Kitchen-Friday-Harbor-summer (2)
Carlton Farms pork chop with goat cheese and roasted poblano cream sauce, pinto beans, lime, and cilantro
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Fresh fish of the day
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Pan seared sea scallops with ginger sake beurre blanc and sesame scallion rice cakes
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Cheesecake with fresh organic berries
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Summer fruit crisp

I had the pan seared sea scallops last time I was there and they were delicious.

For lunch, my favorite spot is the Market Chef Deli in Friday Harbor, but they are closed on Saturdays and Sundays so if you are on the island during the weekend, you are out of luck. Their sandwiches come on fresh homemade bread and everything I’ve ever had there has been amazing.

Market-Chef-Friday-Harbor
The Market Chef, Friday Harbor
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The Market Chef, Friday Harbor
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The Market Chef, Friday Harbor
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Tuna sandwich (my favorite) at The Market Chef, Friday Harbor
Other restaurant suggestions:

 

A good place for either pub grub or more upscale dining is the Cask and Schooner in Friday Harbor. Another place for decent relatively inexpensive pub grub is Haley’s Sports Bar and Grill. The Hungry Clam is a great place for a greasy diner breakfast while waiting for the ferry.

I’ve also heard great things about Cafe Demeter (80 Nichols Street) for coffee and pastries, and Tops’l Seafood and Sushi (1 Front Street, above the Cask & Schooner) but I have not yet had a chance to eat at either of them.

In the summer, I would also recommend just packing a picnic lunch and heading out to the West Side for a spectacular sunset dinner. You might even see some whales.

 

Where to stay:

Being former locals, we haven’t stayed at a lot of places on the island ourselves. However, we know a bit about a few of them and here are my suggestions:

Juniper Lane Guest House

Juniper (the owner) is a friend of mine and has done an amazing job of blending cozy island style with hip, modern decor to create a warm, inviting, and affordable B&B. Juniper Lane Guest House also offers a cabin for rent and two backpacker/family rooms that can accommodate up to 6 people with bunk beds. Children must be 12 or older to stay. The Guest House is not very far from town (a little bit of a trek but still walkable) and offers beautiful grounds and pastoral views.

Juniper Lane Guest House Friday Harbor
Image from http://juniperlaneguesthouse.com/
Organic Green Tea Room Juniper Lane Guest House Friday Harbor
Organic Green Tea Room (Image from http://juniperlaneguesthouse.com/)

 

Lakedale Resort

I used to work at Lakedale Resort many years ago and therefore know it pretty intimately. If you are looking for secluded peace and quiet or a romantic getaway, this is your place. The resort offers 9 lake view lodge rooms with jacuzzi bathtubs and gas fireplaces, as well as 6 cabins and one three-bedroom lake house. Cabins and the lake house enjoy shared use of a hot tub in a centrally located gazebo. “Glamping” cabins and a campground provide more outdoorsy yet still very nice accommodation options.

Be aware that it is four miles from Friday Harbor town so you will need to drive into town for meals if you stay at the lodge. Cabins have full kitchens and accommodate up to 6 people with one bedroom, a loft bedroom, and a futon in the living room.

Lakedale Resort Lodge Great Room Friday Harbor
Lakedale Lodge Great Room
Lakedale Resort Lodge Room Friday Harbor
Lakedale Resort Lodge Room

 

Lakedale Resort cabin Friday Harbor
Lakedale cabin (image from www.lakedale.com)
Island Inn

I haven’t been to the Island Inn, but I’ve heard great things. It is centrally located in town within easy walking distance to everything. The rooms look modern from the photos and many appear to have great views of the harbor. They have some budget friendly-options as well.

Island Inn Friday Harbor
Image from www.123west.com
Friday Harbor House

Paddy and I stayed at the Friday Harbor House once in November, and it was really nice. The prices in the summer are atrocious, and even in the winter it is a bit of a splurge but much more reasonable. Most rooms offer views of the harbor, gas fireplaces, and jacuzzi tubs. The complimentary continental breakfast in the morning was outstanding, including house made quiche and coffee cake. Location is ideal–easy walk from the ferry and everything in town.

Friday Harbor House room Friday Harbor
Friday Harbor House (image from www.fridayharborhouse.com)

 

There are a ton of places to stay on the island, including many B&Bs. The above places are just a few suggestions, but there are a lot of other great accommodations as well. A good place to look is on Tripadvisor and http://www.friday-harbor.net/accommodations/index.shtml.

 

San Juan Island is a great place to visit in the summer, but make sure you plan ahead. Never show up to the island without a hotel reservation in July or August. Growing up on San Juan Island was a unique experience, and I’ve had many magical summers there in my youth. Friday Harbor changes every time I visit, but the beauty and serenity of the island remains the same.

 

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Lopez Island, WA Fourth of July 2015

Fourth of July weekend on Lopez Island, WA: A relaxing getaway in the San Juan Islands without the tourist crowds, and some of the best fireworks in the state.

 

Growing up on San Juan Island, I always thought Lopez Island was boring. There is barely a town, and it’s mostly flat. This trip as an adult made me appreciate Lopez Island for exactly that–quiet, peaceful, not much going on. A friend of mine from San Juan Island inherited her grandparents’ property on Lopez Island and has been spending Fourth of July there with friends every year, while renting it out to tourists the rest of the summer. We had no Fourth of July weekend plans this year, and when she invited us to join her and her husband and friends, we figured why not?

Prior to the new ferry reservation system for the San Juan Islands that began this year, we would never have considered going up to visit the San Juans over Fourth of July weekend. Fourth of July weekend (especially for Friday Harbor/San Juan Island) is kind of like Black Friday is for shopping malls. It is insanely busy. I’ve heard stories of past ferry lines stretching miles away from the ferry terminal all the way into Anacortes town. Having grown up in Friday Harbor and worked many Fourth of July weekends in various tourist industry jobs, it is hell week for Friday Harborites, but also the weekend the tourist industry people make the most money.

But now we can make reservations. There is much controversy over this new policy with the locals, and I think they still have a few things to iron out. For us however, we made our reservation a couple months in advance, arrived an hour before the 12:35 boat to Lopez Island, and sailed right on with no problem. You can make reservation here up to three months before you head up to the islands. They release 1/3 of the reservations three months ahead, 1/3 a couple weeks ahead, and the remaining 1/3 two days ahead. If you can’t get your reservation, keep checking back.

Day 1: 

Our friend Brooke joined Paddy and I for the weekend on Lopez. We had a smooth sail on the ferry with much fewer crowds than the Friday Harbor sailing. We watched a never-ending line of walk-on tourists board the ramp for the Friday Harbor ferry before the Lopez/Orcas ferry departed. We were on the brand new ferry boat, which had a nice sun deck up top for viewing.

Anacortes Ferry Terminal beach
Anacortes Ferry Terminal beach
Mt Baker, viewed from the Lopez Island ferry
Mt Baker, viewed from the Lopez Island ferry
San Juan Island ferry
Passing another ferry
Lopez Island Ferry in summer
Arriving Lopez Island, walk-on passengers departing. Photo by Brooke Richard

There is no town at the Lopez Island ferry terminal, not much of anything there at all. We drove off the ferry with little traffic, and headed towards Lopez Village.

Our friends’ house is a short ways past Lopez Village, with a gorgeous view of Fisherman Bay. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the deck and making food for dinner. I made a cherry cobbler with some cherries I’d picked from another friend’s cherry tree and it turned out great.

**Note: You can rent this house June through August through VRBO.com (except Fourth of July weekend, that weekend is always reserved for the owners).

Lopez Island house
Our friends’ house on Lopez Island
Fisherman's Bay, Lopez Island
Fisherman’s Bay, Lopez Island
Paddy making a salad for dinner
Paddy making a salad for dinner

Relaxing and watching the sunset

We went into the Lopez Village Market to pick up some ice cream to go with the cobbler. Lopez Island Creamery makes some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had. Be sure to try some while visiting Lopez. You can also buy it by the cone at the market or in town at the Just Heavenly Fudge Factory in Lopez Village. I highly recommend the raspberry lemon if you can find it.

Lopez Island Creamery ice cream
Lopez Island Creamery ice cream

**Note: This isn’t the mainland. The Lopez Village Market is the only game in town for groceries, wine, beer, and booze and it closes at 7:00 PM every day. Make sure you get all your beer and supplies before then. There is a store on the south end of Lopez as well called the South End General Store, which is open until 7:30 and also serves food.

The rest of the evening we hung out and had drinks on the deck, BBQ’ed, and played some cards. The sunset was phenomenal.

Sunset over Fisherman's Bay
Sunset over Fisherman’s Bay Lopez Island

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Sunset Lopez Island
Watching the sunset

 

Day 2:

The next morning was the Fourth of July. Every year, the Lopez Library has an annual book sale to raise money for the library. We ate breakfast and headed into the village early to get there before it got too picked over. We were handed a red sack at the front door which we could fill up as full as we wanted to for $20.00. Five of us filled it to the brim with lots of interesting books. You can also buy books individually.

Saturdays in the summer (mid May through mid September) are also the day for the Lopez Farmers Market from 10:00 to 2:00. It’s a great place to get locally grown veggies, but there are also many other booths selling local crafts, baked goods, tacos and tamales, jewelry, and other items.

Lopez Island Farmer's Market
Lopez Island Farmer’s Market
Lopez Island Farmer's Market
Lopez Island Farmer’s Market
Lopez Island Farmer's Market
Lopez Island Farmer’s Market

One thing I love about Lopez Island is how accepting everyone is. There are a lot of hippies, artists, and free spirits on Lopez and they welcome diversity. I was wearing some funky sunglasses and a vintage-style sundress showing off my tattoos and got lots of random compliments from strangers– as opposed to judgemental “you folks ain’t from around here” looks common in many small towns across America. People from foreign countries and gay and lesbian travelers will feel welcome on Lopez Island as well.

After the Farmer’s Market, it was almost time for the Fourth of July Parade. We drove back towards the house on Fisherman Bay Road and were able to pull over and park near the start of the parade. We easily found a spot on the front of someone’s lawn on the side of the road.

The parade wasn’t much to write home about, but it was full of heart. It seems all anyone really needs to be a part of it is an interesting car or a funky outfit. My favorite part was the lack of crowds and low-key, low-stress vibe. That, and the random giant paper-mache Oscar Meyer Weiner float.

Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade
Lopez Island Fourth of July Parade

 

The parade wasn’t very long, and afterwards Paddy and I explored some of the south end of Lopez Island. We drove to Watmough Bay, but took a wrong turn along the way and ended up on a private road (I think to Paul Allen’s property). We turned around and found our way to the parking area for Watmough at the end of Watmough Head Rd.

Lopez Island --End of Sperry Rd
Lopez Island –End of Sperry Rd
Lopez Island Map
Lopez Island Map

Watmough Bay is touted by locals to be the best beach on the island. It is often very busy on summer weekends. I think we lucked out because everyone was at the Fourth of July BBQ in the village–there was a parking space and only a few people at the beach.

The bay reminded me a little of Maya Bay in the Phi Phi Islands in Thailand. No white sand–a little rocky and lots of seaweed in the water but still beautiful and very Northwest.

Watmough Bay Lopez Island
Watmough Bay
Watmough Bay Lopez Island
Watmough Bay

I found a beached lion’s mane jellyfish on the sand. If you see one of these, don’t touch it or step on it. The bell of the jellyfish is harmless but the tentacles will give a painful sting even when it is dead.

lion's mane jellyfish (Cyanea capillata)
lion’s mane jellyfish (Cyanea capillata)

 

We hung out at Watmough for a few and then decided to move on. Next we went to Shark Reef Sanctuary, which is accessed by a short trail through the woods to the rocky coast of the southwest part of the island. You can often see seals basking on the rocks here. We didn’t see any seals, but the views are still stunning. You can see Cape San Juan on San Juan Island across the channel, and kelp forests in the water below. There were a few kayakers out enjoying the coast.

Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Kayakers at Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island
Kelp beds at Shark Reef Sanctuary Lopez Island with Cape San Juan in the distance

 

We were starting to get hungry, so we ventured back into the village. Our friend Brooke joined us and we decided on Bucky’s Lopez Island Grill, which has a nice deck out back. Paddy and I both had the cajun ahi tuna taco special, which was great. Brooke and I each tried a glass of the Madeline Angevine from Lopez Island Vineyards.

Ahi tacos at Bucky's Lopez Island Grill
Ahi tacos at Bucky’s Lopez Island Grill
Lunch at Bucky's Lopez Island Grill
Lunch at Bucky’s Lopez Island Grill

There isn’t a lot to Lopez Island Village, but there are a few shops to explore. After lunch we walked over to the Lopez Island Vineyards tasting room to taste their wines.

Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards
Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards
Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards
Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards
Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards
Wine tasting at Lopez Island Vineyards

You could taste three wines for $5 or six for $10–we each opted for three. We all tasted the Siegerebbe (pronounced zee-ger-eh-beh) which is a very fruity and refreshing white wine grown on Lopez Island. The white grapes for the Madeline Angevine are also grown on island. The other grapes are imported from other drier, sunnier parts of Washington in the Yakima Valley, but all the wine is made on Lopez Island.

Paddy and I also tried the Sangiovese and the Malbec which he loved. I liked them (I like most wine, really) but the Malbec was a little tart for me (I’m more of a Syrah and Cabernet person). Brooke tried the Dry Rose and the Raspberry dessert wine. She said the Raspberry wine was very sweet and tasted just like raspberry juice. She bought a bottle of the rose so I tried a little later that evening. I didn’t think it was that dry, it was kind of sweet. Not super sweet though. We bought a bottle of the Siegerebbe to take home for later this summer. Most wines are $25 a bottle.

The vineyard itself is located on the way to the ferry from the village, you can see the grapes growing from the side of the road. There were signs in the tasting room for a summer Shakespeare play in the vineyard in the evening–it looked like fun.

Lopez Island Vineyards
Lopez Island Vineyards

We checked out a few of the other little shops in the village. There is a cute little consignment shop (mostly women’s clothing) next to the coffee shop that is worth a peek. Brooke found an awesome lime green vintage 60’s go-go dress.

Lopez Village
Lopez Village
Lopez Village
Lopez Village
Deja Vu Consignment Boutique
Deja Vu Consignment Boutique

Lopez Village doesn’t have a lot of restaurants, but there are a few options. I’ve only eaten at a couple of them other than Bucky’s, and that was 10 or more years ago, but I remember them being pretty good. Bucky’s and The Galley have burgers and salads and are a couple of the more inexpensive places to eat in town. The Bay Cafe is probably the nicest dinner restaurant. For breakfast I highly recommend Holly B’s Bakery–their bread and pastries are outstanding. Isabel’s Espresso is the local coffee joint, featuring organic coffee and organic milk. You can find a list and short description of all the restaurants on Lopez Island on the Lopez Island Chamber of Commerce website.

We spent the rest of the afternoon making food for dinner and relaxing. Near sunset people began setting up on the side of Fisherman Bay for the fireworks show, and more and more boats showed up to anchor out in the bay. I took a walk down the road to catch some views of the sunset, which was amazing.

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Chairs set up by the side of the road for the Fourth of July Fireworks

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Lopez Island is renowned for it’s Fourth of July fireworks display. They have always had the best fireworks in the San Juan Islands, and I’d go so far to say that they may be the best in the whole state of Washington. Our friends told us that this year they raised $80,000 for the show, which was twice Friday Harbor’s budget. It’s pretty impressive for such a small island. Lopezians take a lot of pride in their fireworks and always have.

Once the sun was set, Friday Harbor began their fireworks at dusk and you could see them across the sound in the distance. Lopez patiently waited until their show was done.

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island
Sunset over Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island

Once Friday Harbor wrapped it up, Lopez gave a 10 minute firework warning, and then a 5 minute warning. Then the show began. It was hands down the best fireworks display I’ve seen. It wasn’t only the volume of fireworks, but the types they had. Some of them I hadn’t even seen before. The show lasted about 30 minutes. I took some photos, but they really don’t do it justice.

Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks
Lopez Island Fourth of July fireworks

 

Day 3:

Lopez voted no last year to the ferry reservations, so you can make a reservation going to Lopez but not to leave Lopez Island. The day after Fourth of July can be very crazy with long lines for the ferries, and because it was also a Sunday, we figured we were best off getting up early and trying to make the 7:15 AM boat. We got in line at 6:30 or so, and the line was already backed up down the road. Fortunately, the boat was large and only loading cars from Lopez to Anacortes, and we made it on. We were tired, but also beat the holiday weekend traffic and made it back to Seattle by 9:45 AM. It was well worth it.

Paddy and I fell in love with Lopez island a little this trip. After growing up with the insanity of the tourist season in Friday Harbor, it was so nice to be able to have an island summer getaway that was laid back and crowd-free. We will be back for sure. There is more of Lopez we’d like to explore–other hiking trails, etc. If you are in the mood for a lazy, low-key San Juan Islands vacation– Lopez Island is perfect.

 

 

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Whale Watching in the San Juan Islands

Whale watching in the San Juan Islands, WA with Legacy Charters. A day tour with fantastic guides, lots of wildlife, and a rare humpback whale sighting

Orca whales are one of the main attractions of the San Juan Islands in Washington. Every year, thousands of tourists flock to the islands and go on whale watch tours in hopes of catching a glimpse of these beautiful and often playful creatures in the wild. Paddy and I had been out whale watching in the San Juan Islands on a small boat whale watch tour about 10 years ago, and it was an amazing experience to see them so close. A huge male swam right under the boat, humbling us with a close look at his enormous size.

Summer is the peak time for whale watching in the San Juan Islands. Aside from having the best weather of the year, in summer the salmon come through the San Juans on their way to the Frazier River to spawn, increasing the food supply in the area for the southern resident orcas. Transient and resident orcas can be seen year round, but the increased population of orcas in the summer increases the chances of a sighting, and is usually the best time to go whale watching.

Photo from www.legacycharters.org
Photo from www.legacycharters.org

I was invited out on a whale watch tour in the spring with a good friend of mine, Rachel, and her husband Spencer with their tour company, Legacy Charters. Most whale watch tours only operate in the summer, but Legacy Charters operates all year long. They see plenty of orcas and wildlife in the winter as well as summer. Even if you don’t get to see whales, there are lots of other birds and marine animals to see, as well as the beautiful island scenery that you won’t see on a ferry. Tours last about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Legacy Charters tour boat
Legacy Charters tour boat

It was April, and rain was predicted all day. In addition, no Orca whales had been sighted in several days. While whales are the main attraction, I was hopeful that we might catch a glimpse of some other wildlife such as porpoises, harbor seals, bald eagles, and sea lions.

I met up with Rachel and Spencer at Snug Harbor, a quiet little harbor with a resort on the north west side of San Juan Island. Legacy Charter’s tours depart from the west side of the island, which is where the whales are usually sighted. It ended up being a magical afternoon. The sun came out (contrary to the dreary weather report), and the water was as calm as it could possibly get. I took my motion sickness medicine just in case, and we set out.

**If you suffer from seasickness, check out my post on motion sickness prevention.

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Snug Harbor, San Juan Island
Captain Spencer and Rachel
Captain Spencer and Rachel

As we departed, naturalist Heather showed us some miniature model whales and gave a quick presentation on the types of whales that can be seen in Puget Sound, and a little bit about each of them.

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The types of whales you can find in Puget Sound  and the Salish Sea are the orca whale, gray whale, minke whale, and the humpback whale. The humpback whales spend the winter in warmer waters and only migrate to Puget Sound in the summer season. Humpback whale sightings are rare, but Rachel and Spencer had word that “Big Mama,” a female humpback who summers in the San Juans, was back earlier than usual and making an appearance that day in the waters just over the Canadian border.

Hopeful, we sped across the calm water to the area Big Mama was reportedly swimming. The sun was warm, but I was glad I had brought a hat and hooded rain coat, as the wind was cold while we traveled.

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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: sparkling afternoon sea
Captain Spencer's dashboard crab
Captain Spencer’s dashboard crab

It wasn’t too long before we reached the area where Big Mama had been reported. Captain Spencer slowed the engine, and we waited. Within several minutes we saw her surface and blow water from her blowhole. Everyone was excited.

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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale

Spencer got a little closer, still keeping a safe distance. The fine for getting too close to a whale is pretty steep, and it is important to give the animals plenty of space for their safety. We watched her surface every few minutes for a little while, as she glided around in the water.

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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale
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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale
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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Rachel, tour guide extraordinaire
Cloud on the sea
Cloud reflection on the tranquil sea

At one point we were all staring off the side of the boat, waiting for Big Mama to come up again, and she seemed to be down a little longer than usual. Suddenly she surfaced right near the back of the boat, spouting water from her blow hole and startling us all. It was so exciting to see her so close. She must have been a bit curious about our boat. Rachel and Spencer were really excited–they said they’ve never seen a humpback that close before in all their tours whale watching in the San Juan Islands.

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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale
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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale

We watched her for a bit longer, she swam further away but I managed a good zoom shot of her tail on one of the few times she did a deep dive and showed it to us.

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whale watching in the San Juan Islands: Big Mama the humpback whale

Seeing Big Mama was definitely the highlight of the trip, but Captain Spencer was ready to see what other kinds of wild life we could find before the tour was over. We saw a couple of porpoises from a distance, but they were pretty far away. We passed a couple bald eagles sitting in the setting sun on the hills and trees of the islands we passed.

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Captain Spencer
The islands
Evening sun on the islands

Pretty soon we reached what Captain Spencer called a “sea lion bachelor party” on Spieden Island. It was a congregation of stoic and blubbery steller sea lion males, sunning themselves proudly on the rocks while another group swam leisurely just off the shore. Rachel said they do this a lot, leave all the females and have some guy time. They were noisy, grunting and barking at each other over who got which spots on the rocks.

Stellar sea lions
Steller sea lions
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Steller sea lions
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Steller sea lions

As we got closer to the rock, a horrendous smell wafted through the air. I asked Rachel if they were farting. “No,” she said. “That’s their breath.” Fortunately, the breeze shifted.

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Steller sea lion bachelor party
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Steller sea lions
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Steller sea lions
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Steller sea lions
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Look at this handsome macho hunk of burnin’ love

We watched the sea lions for a bit. They were aware of us, but seemed more interested in barking at each other.

We then continued back towards San Juan, passing two separate rocky outcroppings full of harbor seals sunning themselves, or as Captain Spencer calls them, “rock sausages.” They reminded me of our cats on a warm summer day on the patio.

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Harbor seals
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Harbor seals
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Harbor seals
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Harbor seals

They are very sausage-like, but the nickname also comes from the harbor seal being a favorite food for transient orcas. Resident orcas only eat salmon, while the transient orcas eat seals, porpoises, sea lions, and other marine mammals.

I asked Spencer and Rachel why the two groups of whales eat different cuisine. Spencer said it was cultural, kind of like how people in China eat rice, and people in Italy eat pasta. The two groups of orcas don’t interact with each other at all. Spencer has seen resident and transient pods swim right by each other with no interaction. No interbreeding has ever been documented. It is almost like they are a separate species. Aside from having separate cultures, biologists have also noted different “languages” between the two groups. Spencer says he hears a difference in the calls of the resident whales vs the transients.

Unfortunately the decline in Chinook salmon in Puget Sound is causing a decline in the southern resident orca population. The NOAA has established a Chinook salmon recovery plan, but progress has been slow-going. Meanwhile, transient populations (marine mammal-eating) seem to be increasing. You can find out more about the Southern Resident Killer Whale Chinook Salmon Initiative and donate to help here.

The tour ended at sunset, and it was a great time. I’d recommend Legacy Charters for whale watching in the San Juan Islands over many other tour groups due to the small boat experience. Going in a small boat with a maximum of around six passengers gives you a more intimate experience with the whales, and an opportunity to ask questions and learn more from the guides.  Also, the large boat tours leave out of Friday Harbor on the east side of San Juan Island, and the whales are normally seen on the west side. Leaving from the west side at Snug Harbor gives you more tour time and more wildlife viewing opportunities. I would strongly recommend bringing a car to San Juan Island, however if you don’t have a car with you Legacy Charters can help arrange transportation from Friday Harbor to Snug Harbor and back.

Legacy Charters crew: (left to right) Naturalist Heather, Captain Spencer, and Rachel
Legacy Charters crew: (left to right) Naturalist Heather, Captain Spencer, and Rachel

I would also recommend a visit to the Whale Museum in Friday Harbor before you go whale watching in the San Juan Islands if time allows. It is a great museum with tons of information on the whales in the area and will help you understand more about these beautiful creatures before you see them in the wild.

Also, don’t forget to make your ferry reservations in advance!

https://secureapps.wsdot.wa.gov/Ferries/Reservations/Vehicle/default.aspx